Mount Papandayan, Day 2 – Heading to Tegal Alun, Dead Forrest and Home

This is the last part (almost the last) of my series of post about my trip to Mount Papandayan. I have to divide it to several posts because I want to share all the photos I have taken. I know that I don’t have to do that, I can just chose one or two photos but I feel like that’s not enough. The first post was Heading To Mount Papandayan and the second one was Mount Papandayan, Day 1- Heading to Pondok Saladah. This is the third ๐Ÿ™‚ I have the fourth in scheduled for Thirteen Thursday because the last post is mostly about the eternal flower, Javanese Edelweiss.

On the last post, I left you with a story of me and my team camping in Pondok Saladah. This time I will share day 2 where we prepared ourselves to go higher than Pondok Saladah. As I had said before, more than 14 years ago my visit to Mount Papandayan only reached Pondok Saladah. It turned out there were more great things if we climbed higher.

Just to remind you of Pondok Saladah, see the image below! We were heading to the hill behind the camping ground.


We woke up around five because we had to do our morning pray and had a bit of breakfast. I couldn’t imagine going for a hike with empty stomach ๐Ÿ˜‰ We left the camping ground in Pondok Saladah around 6 am. I thought the hike will be another easy and fun hike…I was totally wrong!! It was still fun, in fact I thought it was incredibly fun but it was definitely NOT easy. As I had written in the previous post, day 1 was raining. The rain was quite hard, so we predicted that the soil will be wet and slippery…and it was indeed much more slippery than the hike to Pondok Saladah.

The soil was so wet and slippery, it didn’t feel like soil was a total mud. My shoes were almost off once in a while. You can see below how muddy the track was. We had to find a harder track to avoid the mud. The track was narrow, we had to hold on to tree branches to keep ourselves from sliding or got stuck in the mud.


As if the mud was not challenging enough, we were then faced with nothing but big rocks. There was no other way, we climbed the rock with our hands. There were only two ways to climb it, either by grabbing the tree branches or the rock itself. We were lucky when the rock was not to high. I needed help from the guys once in a while because I couldn’t find tree branch to hold on to and the rock was too high for such a hobbit like me.

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Climbing those rocks were definitely the highlight of my Mount Papandayan trip! I LOVE IT!! It was so fun. I have phobia with high but at that time, I really didn’t mind at all. I felt a bit giddy but being there was fun…simply pure fun! Once we were high enough, we could see another great view. I shot this before we reached the end of our climb. On the left, you can see the camping ground (click the image to see it closer.


The rock finally ended and another wet track had patiently waiting for us….fortunately it wasn’t a long walk. We reached our first destination. It was the first field of endless Edelweiss Flower. Javanese Edelweiss (Anaphalis Javanica) is different with Europe Edelweiss. I share about this flower and a close up look on the flowers this coming Thursday in a post called Thirteen Thursday (I hope you’ll visit my blog again on Thursday ๐Ÿ™‚ )

We took some pictures there but we didn’t stay long because it wasn’t our final destination. We had to walk a bit more to reach the highest part of the mountain. All theย  wet soil and the rock climbing paid off once I saw this beautiful view. the camping ground looked much smaller now (again, you can click it to see it clearer)



The spot to see that beauty was so small. It was just small clearing between trees. We couldn’t stay for long because other people also eager to see the view and of course taking few pictures.

Next, we had to climb down through another wet-muddy-soil. We were heading to Tegal Alun where we could see a filed of Edelweiss.


We came on the wrong month ๐Ÿ˜ฆ because when we got there, the Edelweiss hadn’t blossomed yet. If we came on June or July, we could see the blossoming of little yellow Edelweiss. Even though we didn’t see much Edelweiss but we still enjoy the field that looked somewhat Savannah-ish.

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Without taking too much rest, we started our hiking down to Hutan Mati (Dead Forest). We didn’t take the same route because it was impossible to go down through those big rocks…beside the rocks will lead us back to the camping ground whereas our next destination is the Dead Forest. Fortunately, even though the track was so steep but it had dried out a little. The sun was on this side so it heated up the soil faster than the other side of the mountain. The narrow track forced us to stop whenever we met people who were climbing up, we had to let them pass before we could move on.

While waiting, I took several pictures of the far away land ๐Ÿ˜‰ The smog you see in the picture was the same sulfuric fume from the crater I had shared before (here)

…and I give you the view in Hutan Mati or Dead Forest. It is called dead Forest for there was no living tree in this land.

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I think it was about 10 or 11 am when we finally reached the camp again. We hardly had any rest because we had to begin repacking our stuff and tent. When I went to take water, I saw the the rocky track from a far (click for a closer look). Too bad my camera couldn’t zoom it any closer.



Our going home hike was much faster then climbing up…of course! Our carriers had gone lighter and going down required less effort. However, we were racing against the rain. the fog suddenly thicken and few drops of water came down from the sky. We didn’t want to be on the track when the rain completely fell from the sky.

Fortunately…the rain never fell down completely. We reached Camp David intact and dry ๐Ÿ™‚

Like I said before…hiking on a mountain is always fun ๐Ÿ™‚ Can’t wait to have another holiday and another hiking. One of my new friends is going to Mount Rinjani this May, but it’s not school holiday so I couldn’t go ๐Ÿ˜ฆ My next holiday will be in June.

Here’s a picture of me near the sulfuric fume with the sky covered by fog.


Some of my new friends in DNtala Adventure group.


Here’s a short video of the road. To go home, we had to take another ride on the pick up again, and of course through that terribly bad road. I call this as a bumpy ride home ๐Ÿ˜‰

This is the last post of my trip to Papandayan but I still have another pictures of the Edelweiss coming this Thursday ๐Ÿ™‚

13 thoughts on “Mount Papandayan, Day 2 – Heading to Tegal Alun, Dead Forrest and Home

  1. Another interesting read, and lovely photos, I always enjoy seeing images of landscapes and nature from different countries and seeing how it’s different to here! I had a similar experience with mud; shortly after our long winter of rain here in the UK me and my friend went walking around the Peak District which is a national park in the middle of England. It was extremely muddy and slippery, made for fun walking!
    I must say, your posts are inspiring me to write more about my travels on my blog – when I do travel, that is. ๐Ÿ™‚

    1. I should have bought a pair of boots for that muddy situation.

      Oh…I am glad you said so ๐Ÿ˜‰ same as you, I also enjoy reading about travel and seeing the photos.

  2. Yes… very interesting indeed! You like the hiking as much as me, Novia! I used to go quite a bit back in college but now with work there is very little time for it anymore. Reading this reminds me how much I definitely miss it. ๐Ÿ˜‰

    The Dead Forest looks creepy… is that from volcanic gasses? I would imagine the sulfuric acid fumes would be terrible in some places and be bad for everything alive there. Did you have to carry protective masks to be close to these places? That would have me so nervous… thinking I could be suffocated or something at any moment.

    1. Me too! I used to go hiking when I was still in college then I got so busy and never went hiking anymore…until now. How I missed doing this. I wish I can continue doing this like that old woman in my group. She is more than 50 but still has great strength.

      I wonder about that dead forest, I haven’t found the explanation about it…why only that area is dead. The sulfuric fume isn’t too thick like in Mount Ijen, It’s not deadly. But i remembered that the mountain was closed in 2011 because of its high activity and the sulfuric fume was too thick.

  3. WOW, I didn’t even know there is such a thing as a Javanese Edelweiss!! Shame on me, eh? That pics of the Dead Forest is really cool too, man I should visit this place whenever I go back home, fun stuff Nov!

  4. That was a nice writeup! I felt like I went along with you. It was nice to be able to see all those different places and landscapes that you went through. Is that an old dead forest, or one that was killed recently?

    1. Thank you for reading all the posts Peter (hug)

      I believe it’s rather new because as far as I can remember it wasn’t there 14 years ago…We didn’t have guide when we hiked so we couldn’t get much story about it.

  5. hey do you still remember how long it takes to hike from the bottom to Pondok Saladah, from Pondok Saladah to Tegal Alun, and from Tegal Alun back to the bottom? Thx ๐Ÿ™‚ Will be going in a few months time!

    1. Not from the bottom, from Camp David to Pondok Saladah is about 2-3hours, depend on your speed. From Saladah to Tegal Alun is about 30 minutes- 1 hour.

      Have fun up there ๐Ÿ™‚

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